I took the train from Paddington to Henley and then enjoyed the wonderfully scenic
view from the river bank as I walked along to The Spice Merchant, on this first
day of the Henley Royal Regatta, for The Spice Merchant's special Regatta menu and
programme. The Spice Merchant is situated in a traditional rustic framed building
on the river's edge roughly opposite the famous Leander Club and is a creation of
owner, proprietor and food guru Bashir Islam. I had arrived for the Indian breakfast
at this superb location on a beautiful sunny day and the temperature was rising.
The hospitality was excellent from the point of arrival - being offered coffee and
champagne and the Henley Royal Regatta do go rather well together!
Breakfast was served in the ground floor front part of The Spice Merchant which
is where drinks and snacks are usually served with views across the river. The breakfast
comprised choliy, bhatore, egg paratha, plain curd and aloo bajji. This was a flavoursome
selection of mild dishes plus a touch of spice which set the tone for a blend of
Indian with the quintessentially Edwardian ambience of the Regatta. This Indian
Breakfast was served at the suggestion of part owner Richard Pugh (also a surveyor),
rather than an English breakfast, based on his faultless logical reasoning that
it is an Indian restaurant. It was certainly interesting and should be tried at
least once !
Following breakfast I boarded The Spice Merchant boat immediately outside for a
trip along the Regatta course to just beyond Temple Island and back, complete with
Pimms and more champagne. Delightful ! It was fun to observe some racing at close
quarters and also served as a lively reminder of the substantial length of the course,
6930 feet, and the very high level of fitness required to row that at speed.
Then back to The Spice Merchant for lunch in the first floor room with a panoramic
view over the river. ( There is also a small private dining room adjacent, suitable
for approximately 8 diners). Lunch comprised 7 courses with carefully chosen accompanying
wines. This is when executive chef Narenda Singh, and his team (originally from
the highly regarded London Amaya restaurant), came into their own with a selection
of inspired and very refined dishes. Winners included delicious Oysters and King
Scallops; a flavoursome ginger potato and broccoli with home made yoghurt infused
with a hint of mango and a superb Hydrabadi Briyani ( Chicken Birani). This was
some of the best Indian food I have had ; the carefully thought out menu was extremely
light and blended exceedingly well and it is not surprising that Indian food is
particularly well suited to a hot day. So please cast doubts aside - I felt in very
good shape for the walk over the bridge to the Stewards' Enclosure where I admired
the elegant ladies, a number with superb hats – all with dresses below the knee
as per the regulations for this Enclosure !
It was soon time to return to The Spice Merchant for afternoon tea which was served
al fresco by the river - mixed pakura, samosa and fresh fruits with a choice of
Indian spice tea or English tea - I chose the Indian spice which was most refreshing.
All extremely civilised.
At the back of the Spice Merchant on the ground floor is a much larger contemporary
style dining area. My preference is for the old part - front ground floor or upstairs
with scenic views over the river; much greater aesthetic appeal. The location of
The Spice Merchant is excellent with just a short walk over to the Leander Club
and Stewards Enclosure and only 10 minutes walk from the station should you choose
to arrive by train. This excellent, beautifully located restaurant is open 7 days
a week throughout the year except Christmas day: lunch 11.30am - 2.30pm; dinner
6pm - 11pm and if you have a party of 6 or more there is a complimentary trip available
either before or after dinner on the Spice Merchant boat. An approximate price per
head is £40 excluding wine.
Click here to book your chosen Hospitality Package option, or call our Henley restaurant now on 01491 636118.
Please click here for more information on our facilities
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